The Simplest Way to Fix Bouncy Floors
We have had many calls from homeowners complaining about bouncy or shaky floors that cause annoying vibration, rattling china, cracking grout and so on.
Over the years traditional remedies have been used to resolve the problem and stiffen the floor. One of the biggest issues is not just the cost to fix the floor, but how effective the floor performance (how the floor feels) would be afterwards.
This article shows that the simplest and most cost effective way of fixing bouncy floors is by using Luxor’s patented IBS engineered bridging and doing the floor analysis with Luxor’s Floor Performance Rating (FPR) system. The FPR is based on point load deflection (this is what occurs when one steps on a floor while walking across the room) and predicts floor performance.
For our comparison we will use a 16 foot by 20 foot room built with 16 foot floor joists. We will analyze six test cases using the five traditional remedies that have been used to fix bouncy floors as well as IBS Engineered Bridging:
- Add bridging or blocking
- Double-up floor joists
- Add another layer of subfloor
- Add a ceilling
- Add a beam
- Use IBS Engineered Bridging
1 - ADD BRIDGING OR BLOCKING
The simplest solution most people use is to add conventional bridging or blocking between the joists. They can buy the product readily and they can do it themselves.
After installation, in most cases, they will realize that the floor feels the same as there was no noticeable difference.
Pros:
- Easy and relatively fast to install.
- Lowest cost.
Cons:
- If blocks are used, they must be cut to precise lengths.
- Blocks must be toe-nailed.
- The tops of the cross bridging could be rubbing the underside of the subfloor.
- Has to be installed from underneath.
- The least effective solution.
Floor Performance: Floor will feel 1 to 4% better.
Cost: $100 or $.31 per square foot
2 - DOUBLE UP FLOOR JOISTS
Usually, a friend or designer might suggest doubling the floor joists. Now, we have a double joist which should act like a beam. “The floor should feel a lot better.”
The labour cost is high since all the wires, pipes, etc. have to be removed and then put back. Now, another joist has to be fastened to the existing one. It is very difficult to put in a fixed 16 foot piece of joist into a space that is 16 feet in length with a space of 12” or 16”.
Pros:
- Will achieve a better performing floor.
Cons:
- Labour intensive
- Have to take out pipes, wires, HVAC lines, etc.
- Difficult to put joists onto bearing walls.
- Have to put back new pipes, wires, HVAC lines, etc.
- Have to buy joists for each space.
- Has to be installed from underneath.
Floor Performance: Floor will feel 38% better.
Cost: $600 or $1.90 per square foot
3 - ADD ANOTHER LAYER OF SUBFLOOR
Sometimes, a person might recommend that another subfloor layer be put down on top of the existing one. The theory is that this will make the subfloor stiffer, which will lead to less bounce.
A problem with this is that, in most cases, there is already an existing floor covering such as ceramic, vinyl or hardwood. If this is the case, another remedy is needed.
Pros:
- Will achieve a better performing floor.
Cons:
- Very labour intensive.
- Can only be done if there is no floor covering or carpet.
Floor Performance: Floor will feel 34% better.
Cost: $650 or $2 per square foot
4 - ADD A CEILING
A common remedy is to strap the whole underside of the joists and then add drywall. People think that this will tie all the joists together.
Pros:
- Will achieve a slightly better floor.
Cons:
- Labour intensive.
- Expensive material cost, strapping and drywall.
- Can only be installed from underneath.
- In relation to cost versus floor performance, it is the worst case.
Floor Performance: Floor will feel 11% better.
Cost: $1,000 or $3 per square foot
5 - ADD A BEAM
Usually, the last remedy is to put in a beam. Associated with the beam will be columns and footings. Even though the floor will feel so much better, a lot of people do not want to use this remedy, since the room will now be divided.
Pros:
- Will achieve the best performing floor.
Cons:
- High labour and material cost.
- One or more posts will be needed with footings.
- The depth of the beam affects headroom.
- The room will now be divided eliminating the open concept.
- Requires a contractor and maybe a structural engineer.
Floor Performance: Floor will feel 150 to 220% better.
Cost: $850 or $2.65 per square foot
6 - USE IBS ENGINEERED BRIDGING
Install a row of IBS at midspan. Either use standard or retrofit IBS units.
If needed, two rows of IBS can be added. The cost will be slightly more and the floor performance will be better. ( an extra $100 for a 77% better floor ).
Pros:
- Easy and fast to install.
- Standard or retrofit units available.
- Can install around existing pipes, wires, HVAC lines, etc.
- Easy for a Do It Yourself installation.
- Will achieve the second best performing floor.
- Overall, the best solution, cost to floor performance.
Cons:
- Has to be installed from underneath.
Floor Performance: Floor will feel 45% better.
Cost: $300 or $.94 per square foot
SUMMARY:
The simplest and most cost effective solution to eliminate a bouncy or shaky floor is to use a row of the IBS. Any handyman can install the IBS without altering or changing the actual floor system. There is no need to “guesstimate” labour and materials. Luxor’s FPR will predict how the floor will feel.
Tags: bouncy floor, construction, DIY, floors, house repair, i-joist, joists, renovation, retrofit
January 8th, 2009 at 12:55 pm
I was searching the website to try to find a solution to fix my bouncy floors and found the site for the IBS 2000 product. I talked to a person at the firm and they went over the product with me.
Talking to this person, my local lumber yard and also a building inspector friend of mine, I went ahead and purchased the IBS 2000 to use for my house.
I did the installation myself with the help of my brother. The cost for the IBS was about $200. It took us about 3 hours to install 15 pieces.
When we walked on the floor, we noticed a big difference. It was way more solid. My wife and children walked on the floor and they were pleasantly surprised.
FYI, one of the options that I was going to initially use was to sister each joist.
March 4th, 2009 at 1:14 pm
The product does work. I was skeptical about using it at first.
The credenza and hutch in the dining room does not shake or move anymore when someone is walking across the floor.
May 1st, 2009 at 10:04 am
I had a springy floor in my house. My contractor friend told me to sister another joist to the existing joists. Since my house is 35 years old, it would be alot of work due to the existing wiring, plumbing and heating pipes. My friend quoted me a price for him to do it.
After hearing the cost, I said to myself, is the bounce worth the cost to fix it? He had quoted me $1,500 and 3 or 4 days to do the work.
Doing some homework on the internet, I looked up “sistering”. I came upon a product called the IBS 2000. After some more homework, I decided to use the IBS 2000.
To our amazement, the IBS 2000 worked like a charm. The floor felt great. The springiness was gone in the floor. Best of all, the cost of the IBS 2000 was only $300. It took me one day to install them.
May 22nd, 2009 at 7:39 am
I am doing a kitchen renovation to my house. We are putting in new porcelain tiles, new appliances and a big centre island with granite countertops. The existing floor is not bouncy or sagging; however, I want to strengthen the joists. I want to find out “if I add the IBS 2000 bridging to the exisiting floor joists, how will the floor feel?”
May 26th, 2009 at 4:33 am
Hello
Very Nice blog with good ideas !
Very instructive…
Thanks
John
May 28th, 2009 at 5:48 am
As a retired Structural Engineer, I had been introduced to the IBS 2000 bridging product about 5 years ago. Up until then, sistering joists, adding to the sub-floor, etc. was the norm - costly and time-consuming. Sagging, squeaking, bouncy floors greatly benefit from the IBS 2000, as it solidifiesthe joists with a true connection, thereby alleviating all those problems. Some of my colleagues believe that blocking is an alternate to bridging - the cost is minimal as well. However, blocking does only a fraction of the job, at best, since blocking cannot be guaranteed to not squeak having been toe-nailed from underneath. The IBS 2000 system allows both new home and retrofit installation; the cost ratio to floor performance is undeniably sound. I highly recommend this product.
June 1st, 2009 at 1:47 pm
Nice post, looking forward to further updates
June 3rd, 2009 at 4:41 am
Informative and enlightening. I
June 3rd, 2009 at 1:46 pm
In response to Todd:
As a contractor who does high end custom kitchens and bathrooms, I use the IBS 2000 to stiffen my floors. I know that I will not have to go back six months later and have to spend money and time to fix any floor issues.
June 4th, 2009 at 9:07 am
Great post! Just wanted to let you know you have a new subscriber- me!
June 4th, 2009 at 1:08 pm
It’s nice to see an easier way to do it other than sistering the joists……………
June 4th, 2009 at 1:17 pm
I have floor trusses in my floors built in the 1990’s. I have noticed that in parts of the floors, the joists have sagged. It is not bouncy. When you walk on those areas, it feels like the joist is moving down. For my situation, is the IBS bridging worth evaluating to fix my issue? FYI, the areas are in the living and dining rooms.
June 5th, 2009 at 2:46 pm
Great post … I love this site…Thanks
June 11th, 2009 at 7:19 pm
Thanks for the interesting article
http://goodoletom.com/store
June 15th, 2009 at 8:59 am
Your post is very well crafted and I have learned. I
June 22nd, 2009 at 11:33 am
To Doug T.:
1) If you used lumber joists, the joists have crown. How was the crown laid down ( up or down )?
2) Another issue could be subfloor? If it was plywood, you could have core voids in some sheets or maybe the T & G joints were not tight? Older homes could have issues with the diagonal planks.
These could be causing the sagging in your floor.
June 23rd, 2009 at 2:45 pm
This is a very good product for reducing floor vibration. I have seen it fix a bouncy floor many times. Overall it will save you money.
June 29th, 2009 at 5:15 am
In response to Doug T. on June 4.
Floor trusses require the use of strongbacks. Check your strongbacks. They might be cut ( not attached )or they might be tying in only a few trusses.
You can the IBS; however you should use it for the entire area, not just in the area where you have the sag.
August 31st, 2009 at 6:33 pm
I have floor trusses in my floors built in the 1990’s. I have noticed that in parts of the floors, the joists have sagged. It is not bouncy. When you walk on those areas, it feels like the joist is moving down. For my situation, is the IBS bridging worth evaluating to fix my issue? FYI, the areas are in the living and dining rooms.;. All the best!!
October 5th, 2009 at 4:35 am
In response to Seiko. Please see June 29 reply.
If it is not a strongback issue, then you might have a bearing problem. Check the bearings on the sagging trusses that you have.
January 6th, 2010 at 1:51 pm
Just used the IBS bridging in my custom home. I had 11 7/8″ deep i-joist spanning 18 to 22 feet on my floors. I had an issue with lightweight concrete in my kitchen area. After the marble was laid, you could feel the joists vibrate. Discussing this issue with my builder, he told me that he would fix it with the IBS. What a difference? There was no more vibration in the floor. I asked my builder why he did not use the IBS when he framed the floor? His response was that he will use the IBS from now on.
January 18th, 2010 at 8:06 am
My client had a spongy, bouncy, shaky floor. After considering a number of solutions to fix this problem, I decided to go with the Luxor IBS2000 interlocking manufactured bridging system from Luxor Industrial Group. Installing the system was a breeze and the results were a greatly improved structural integrity of the floor after only one day of installation labor. A cost effective and easy solution to a common problem in floor renovation, as a contractor I recommend the IBS2000 interlocking bridging system.
Andrew Davies
DR Countertops&Renovations
North Vancouver BC Canada
April 21st, 2010 at 5:32 am
Should the joists be jacked up if they are sagging, before the IBS system is installed? If this is not done, the bridging system would only function when increased load causes additional deflection. I would want the bridging to absorb the stress that caused the orignial sag. In effect, this would destress the beam [joist] and then spread that load across the entire system through the bridging, when the jack[s] are removed. Need some engineering imput here.
May 6th, 2010 at 10:45 am
No doubt IBS2000 can help with foot traffic , what about reducing vibration from the relocation of stacking full size front load washer/dryer to 2nd floor? On spin cycle, front load can reach 1000 rpm and greater. Want to reduce vibration throughout structure. Intention would be to install IBS connectors across span of 2×10 SPF. Renovation pending.